Belgrade, Serbia, is one of those very off-the-grid places with a somewhat untrue reputation. The truth is that Belgrade is worth visiting for its people, the beauty of the city, and the amazing food it offers. All for a really low price (read about the cost of living in Belgrade here).

Skip it if you’re after a polished old town, a beach holiday or a trip where nothing goes sideways.

I spent several weeks here a few years ago and came back home liking it more than I thought I would even though everything went smoothly either – and I’ll tell you about that too.

Today, I decided to update and upgrade my original article, rebuilding every practical detail with up-to-date information: entry rules, transport, opening hours and prices.

The short version of what has changed: public transport is now free, a first metro line is finally under contract, an international Expo puts the city on the world map, even though Serbia as a whole is going through a tense political period.

Getting to Belgrade

Serbia is not in the European Union, nor the Schengen area, which makes it a very interesting country for international travelers, expats and digital nomads.

This is because the country itself (or Belgrade in particular) can be used to wait out the Schengen Area travel rules. Here, citizens of the US, UK, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can enter visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. Basically, exactly the amount you need to reset your Schengen limits.

EU citizens can enter the country with a passport or a national ID card.

From the Belgrade airport

Nikola Tesla Airport sits about 18 km west of the center, and the drive takes 20 to 35 minutes in normal traffic. You have various options available, including a free one.

The free one is bus 72. It’s an ordinary city bus, so it costs nothing, but it’s slower and busier than the alternatives, it can take up to 50 minutes to reach the center of the city and has no luggage racks.

The A1 minibus is faster, running to Slavija Square in about 30 minutes and costing around 400 RSD (€3.50).

Or you can grab a taxi to take you directly to your hotel. A regular taxi will cost around 3,500 RSD (around €30) and I recommend getting a fixed-price voucher from e-kiosks inside the terminal. This is how you pay the driver and he’s not allowed to charge more.

Bolt, Yandex Go and CarGo are the ride-hailing apps you can also use, but the costs are similar.

IMPORTANT! Ignore anyone who approaches you in the arrivals hall, offering you a taxi ride. You will end up paying a lot more for the trip.

Alternately, if you want to avoid the headaches, you can stay in one of my recommended hotels near the Belgrade airport.

Where To Stay In Belgrade

Much of the action in Belgrade is centered around the Republic Square. Anywhere within a mile to the North, East and Southeast of that is a good place to stay.

If you want to stay in one of the most impressive places around – which I really loved, to be honest – you need to give Hotel Moskva a try.

Right in the heart of the city and with amazing quality, it’s surely a top pick for those who can spend a bit more on accommodation. Check out below a photo I took of this impressive hotel:

For a budget option, you can give Hotel Opera Garni a try. It’s still close to all the central attractions.

I didn’t find many “bad areas” in the immediate vicinity of the center and throughout Belgrade, overall. At night Kneza Mihaila is well lit, as it most of the city. Overall, I felt very safe in Belgrade so, in the end, pick any hotel in that area that looks good and has solid ratings.

Things To Do in Belgrade

As I keep saying, most of the important attractions are located in and around the old city center. You can literally walk from one to another – and I recommend doing it multiple times or at least taking the time to let each one settle in.

Here is how I recommend doing it, starting from Hotel Moskva (or any other central location):

1. Kalemegdan Fortress

Start where the city began. The fortress and park sit on a hill above the meeting of the Sava and Danube rivers.

Entry to the park and fortress grounds is free and open around the clock, and two to three hours is enough for a first look.

The Victor Monument, erected in 1928 on the highest plateau, is the symbol of the city, and the terrace below it is a good spot to watch the sun go down over the rivers. The Roman Well and the Clock Tower are also worth finding, and the Military Museum is on the grounds.

Just walk around, and you will see everything – including the boat bars I’ve already mentioned.

2. Knez Mihailova

While this is the street you’ll technically walk to get to the fortress, as it runs between Republic Square and the fortress itself, I put it second just because Kalemegdan deserves the spotlight.

But chances are you will walk this street at least a few times per day. It’s a beautiful area filled with souvenir stands, shops, local art exhibition, restaurants and cafes.

3. Skadarlija

This is the old bohemian street of taverns (kafanas) with live music. Expect a tourist crowd, so treat it as an evening out. A pleasant one, I would add.

4. Church of Saint Sava

It stands where the Ottomans burned the relics of Saint Sava in 1594, and its interior mosaics cover about 15,000 square meters.

Its interior was renovated a few years ago, and it looks better than ever – and the best part is that entry is free.

5. Nikola Tesla Museum

I’m marking it here on Google Maps, to make it as easy as possible for you to get there.

The English tour ticket costs around 800 RSD and can only be paid in cash. The museum is open 10:00 to 18:00 on Monday and 10:00 to 20:00 the rest of the week. Tesla’s ashes are kept here in a metal sphere, which makes the entire thing even more spectacular and special.

Just make sure to arrive early, as it’s always busy.

6. Museum of Yugoslavia and the House of Flowers

It’s at Botićeva 6 in Dedinje. It’s the most visited museum in Serbia, and Tito is buried on its grounds in the House of Flowers.

A regular ticket costs 800 RSD and operating hours are between 10:00 to 18:00, but keep in mind that the museum is closed on Mondays. Also, the House of Flowers is sometimes closed for maintenance, so check ahead to see if it’s open – it is something worth seeing.

Prepare to spend anything between 2-3 hours here, depending on how in-depth you want to go with everything.

Getting around Belgrade

Public transport is where Belgrade has changed the most recently. Since 1 January 2025, it has been free for all passengers on all city and suburban lines, including buses, trams, trolleybuses and the BG Train.

You simply board any public transport vehicle and you’re free to ride it wherever you want. No tickets, nothing – just board. It’s really fun.

But my original advice still holds, though: if you stay near the center, walking beats everything else.

Best places eat and drink in Belgrade, Serbia

Serbian people are friendly and somewhat “forgotten”. I came away thinking of them as a “rich” poor country.

It is a former communist country, and at times intense. It has a feel of Mediterranean cultures with lots of smoking, eating and drinking.

It’s a mid sized city, modern for being a Former Soviet Union state, and is chock full of beautiful architecture. And, of course, amazing food.

Eat & Drink

The area around Republic Square has a large number of cafes, restaurants, and bars with outdoor areas and nice views over the city.

During the summer months, many of them also featured live music and bands playing. For a string of several weeks, it became a ritual to sit out for at least one beer to enjoy the warm summer nights.

I managed to find some amazing Frozen Yogurt during my stay there. Absolutely delicious, with plenty of options and extremely cheap, too.

The place was called Icebox, and it’s right towards the end of the main street (Kneza Mihaila), before entering the Fortress area. Or exiting, depending on where you come from:

Here’s a list of bars and restaurants that stood out to me also:

Mustache Bar (Blaznavac): A must visit bar in Belgrade, lots of character, great atmosphere. One of the best drink menus in the city. I’m marking it on Google Maps here.

Samo Pivo: Beer lovers’ paradise. This place has a large selection of beers. Easily 200+ different beers to choose from, along with an outdoor patio overlooking the oldest street in Belgrade. Great place to start on a Friday night. I’ve marked it on Google Maps here.

River Walk Bars: This is the new, hip and usually noisy area of the city. It features some swanky new bars and restaurants. They are a bit pricey, but I didn’t mind it as a one-off novelty experience. They turn into actual nightclubs with dancing and more during the evenings/nights.

Boutique: This place is right in Republic Square, and some may call it a “Tourist Trap”. I didn’t find it much different in pricing than the other bars I visited. Stop here if you are trying to get out of the sun after walking the main street of Kneza Mihaila. Location here.

Insight into Serbian Culture

Serbian culture struck me as a mix between Eastern European and Mediterranean cultures.

The Serbs are mostly friendly overall – but at times can be hit or miss. For example many of the taxi drivers tried to rip us off.

One of them even refused to give us change for a ride when we only had a large denomination bill. He threw my friend’s stuff out of the car and told him to leave. Even going so far as to try and drive off with him still partly in the car.

That’s not the only example. A few locals I talked to had visited the US and hated it. One called it way to “capitalistic” and described it as being entirely centered around money.

At one particular bar after ordering two drinks my roommate and I left a tip. The bartender came out from around the bar and slapped the money squarely on the chest of my mate.

He then explained that the money in our dollars was pennies. It was an insult to tip him so little.

We can understand some of that behavior based on the fact that Serbia has been in a relatively recent war (in the 90s) and they blame NATO and the US for it. As a result, many still have strong feelings against the west.

But overall, except for these few occurrences, people in Belgrade and Serbia in general are extremely welcome and will go out of their way to make their guests feel welcome.

Serbia has tasted the luxuries of the west but still wants to consider themselves in the category of the poorer Eastern European countries.

The problem is the city looks significantly better than the cities I visited in Ukraine (before the war). Their sidewalks, roads, transit system, buildings, and landscape all made it feel like I was back in the United States.

The city has a population of 1.3 million people but at times it felt much smaller than that. Belgrade can easily be understood in four weeks or less.

Conclusion

Belgrade was a great time in the mid summer months. The main tourist attractions never felt overrun. I’m pleased to say the city of Belgrade still has some authenticity left.

Spend a month here during the summer. You’ll have a time you’ll never forget.